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No. 53.
United States Hydrographic Office— Bureau of Navigation.
■ -
f'?)
THE CAPE VERDE ISLANDS.
TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH OF
CAPTS. PHILIPPE DE KERHALLET AND A LE. GRAS
. ****** . — r'f,
V* >• Jf
ADDITIONS, TO THE PRESENT DATE-
WILLIAM H. PARKER,
LIEUTENANT, U. S. NAVT.
WASHINGTON:
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE.
1873.
I
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••
/
ADVERTISEMENT.
Tlie description of the Cape Verde Islands is a translation from the
French of Captains Philippe De Kerhallet and A. Le Gras, with addi¬
tions, to the present date.
R. H. W.
United States Hydrographic Office,
Washington, D . C., October 30; 1873.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Page.
General remarks: division of group into Windward and Leeward Islauds ; seasons;
climate; productions; winds; fogs; currents; exports; imports; general
directions; navigation of channels; tides; soundings; coasts . 9-15
St. Antonio: aspect; productions and climate; anchorage off Pointa do Sol;
water ; Tar ratal Bay . . . 15-16
Shoals : directions ; tides ; water ; anchorages of Caroveiras and Simao ; Santa
Cruz; Bull Rock . 16-17
St. Vincent: climate; productions; bays NE. coast ; Bird Island; Porto Grande;
soundings ; directions ; anchorage ; approaches ; Orontes Bank ; change of
soundings; resources; coal; water; tides; San Pedro Bay; Still Bay . 17-20
St. Lucia ; aspect ; population ; anchorage ; Leon Island ; shoals ; caution ;
landing; water; soundings; discolored water . . 20-21
Branca: aspect; anchorage; water; tides . 21-22
Raza: aspect; landing; channel; coral plateau; directions . 22
St. Nicholas: aspect; productions; climate; Freshwater Bay ; directions; water;
tides; St. George Bay ; Rolla Road; Port Preguiza ; anchorage soundings ;
directions; Forcado Bay; Lapa Bay; Tarrafal Bay; anchorage; caution;
water; coast; soundings; NW. Bay; North Point; NE. Point . 22-25
Sal Island : Martinez Peak ; coast ; reefs ; rocks ; Wreck Point ; Horn Point ;
Manuel Point ; resources; currents; landfall; South Bay; anchorage ; cau¬
tion; PortSalina; MordeiraBay; anchorage; water; tides; Turtle Point;
Lion’s Head ; Bird Island ; Palmira Bay ; anchorage . 25-27
BonettaRock: currents; caution .
Boavista : climate; resources; coasts; East Sand Head; Brazen Hill Bluff;
South Point; West Point; reef; Coral Point; North Point; Bluff Reef ;
Broyal Point; Porto do Norte; Hartwell Reefs; reefs and islets; channels;
directions; caution; resources; Curralinho anchorage; Portuguese Road;
reef to westward of bay ; coral reef ; Porto Sal Rey or English Road ; Small
Island; dangers; anchorage; directions; water; tides; rollers; soundings
around Boavista; caution . . 27-32
Leton Rock: description; bearings; soundings around plateau; caution; di¬
rections; Mayo; aspect; productions; coast; Galhao or North Reef; East
Point; South Point; Blisset Reefs; Salt Pan Point; Rocky Point ; English
Road; anchorage; water; landing; supplies; tides; soundings; Colheta
Bay; Bay of Pan Secco ; sounding around Mayo; directions . 32-35
St. Jago: aspect; resources; population; climate; Mt. St. Antonio; exports;
water; coasts; SE. Point; St. Francis Bay ; appearance; PuntadasBicudas;
Punta Temerosa ; Porto Praya ; Pray a ; Quail Island anchorage ; directions:
seasons; tides; supplies; water ; Ribeira Grande; PortComicos; Tort San
Antonio ; Ribeira da Barca ; Ribeira da Prata ; Tarrafal Bay ; wood ; water ;
Tarrafal Point ; Malguetas Bay ; Port St. Jago . 35-39
Fogo : aspect and resources; caution; winds; currents; anchorage off Luz ;
Porto da Villa ; shifting sands ; soundings . 39-40
Brava: aspect; resources; Rombos Islets ; soundings; Fuma Cove; directions;
anchorages of Auciao, Ferreiros, and Feignan de Angua ; products . 40-41
Dangers reported : Haunah’s Coral Shoal: Patty’s Shoal; Porgas Bank . 41-42
Alphabetical index of names of places . 43-45
«
NOTE.
The courses and all bearings are true.
The distances are expressed in sea-miles of GO to a degree of latitude.
A cable’s length is assumed to be one-tenth of a sea-mile.
CAPE VERDE ISLANDS.
Variation in 1873, 19° 30' W. ; annual increase, 3'.
GENERAL REMARKS.
The Cape Verde Islands lie between the parallels of 14°
46' and 17° 12' north latitude, and the meridians of 22° 40'
and 25° 22' west longitude. They were discovered on the
3d of March, 1460, by Antonio Noli, a Genoese in the service
of Portugal. This group is distant about 135 leagues
from Cape Verde, the southern islands being a little nearer
its parallel ; it extends about 160 miles from east to west,
and 150 miles from north to south.
These islands, a dozen in number, are divided into three
groups.
The northwestern includes St. Antonio, St. Vincent, Santa
Lucia, Branca, Baza, and St. Nicholas ; this group lies ESE.
and WNW., forming a distinct chain.
The northeastern includes Sal and Boavista, both groups
being included in the general name of the Windward
Islands. The channels which separate these islands are
generally free from dangers.
The Leeward group includes Mayo, St. Jago, Fogo, and
Brava j to the northward of the latter are two large rocky
islets called the Bornbos. This group is situated nearly on
an ENE. and WSW. line. All the channels between the
islands are clear, except that which separates Boavista
from Mayo, in which lies a dangerous reef called Leton Bock.
The area of the twelve islands is estimated to be 1,241
nautical miles, and the population, which is divided into
nine districts and twenty-nine parishes, at about sixty
thousand. The great majority of the inhabitants are either
native Africans or mixed with European blood. The Portu¬
guese, including the convicts, are greatly in the minority,
and are scattered among the islands as merchants, arti¬
sans, &c. The greatest virtue of these islanders is their
hospitality, but their natural indolence tends to the per¬
petuation of their poverty.
These islands, like the Canaries, seem to be of volcanic
origin. Their surface is generally arid and mountainous, and
there is little vegetation except at the bottom of the ravines.
10 CLIMATE— PRODUCTIONS— EXPORTS— IMPORTS.
Climate.
Productions.
Exports.
Imports.
The climate is very hot (luring the dry season, from Decem¬
ber to July, but it is not so unhealthy as during the rainy
season, which continues from August to November. During
this season pernicious fevers prevail, and sometimes even
the yellow fever; the small pox is very dangerous and makes
great ravages, principally among the blacks. The scarcity
of water, and the droughts which often occur, render the
harvests very irregular and cause terrible famines. At times
torrential, devastating rains are the cause of much misery.
In addition to this are the invasions of countless locusts,
which ravage the fields, and in a few hours strip them of all
vegetation. No less than four great famiues are mentioned.
Those of 1773 and 1831 each lasted three years: the first
carried off one-half of the population of St. Jago, and the
second more than 12,000 souls. In 1846 a part of the inhab¬
itants were obliged to live on herbs.
Eice, Indian corn, tapioca, grape-vines, sugar-cane, and
tobacco are raised in the valleys wherever there is a bed of
vegetable earth. Indigo and cotton-plants grow without
culture, and the tamarind and palm-trees are numerous.
There are no large woods, the forests, the primitive rich¬
ness of these islands, having been destroyed ; the wood of
the coacoa-nut and fig-tree is used in building. Good
water can only be obtained in small quantity. Game,
such as partridges, quails, &c., is now very rare. There is a
small number of horses, asses, and mules on some of the
islands, and a very good breed of working cattle is obtained
by crossing the African buffalo and the European cow.
The colonial industry is principally confined to working
salt-mines, the extraction of oil, and a little sugar, the distil¬
lation of tafia and the manufacture of cotton and woolen
fabrics which are sent to the coast of Africa. Fish abound
around the islands and in all the bays.
The principal exports are, from the Windward Islands,
coffee, orchal, salt, and goat-skins ; from the Leeward Islands,
salt, a seed called purgueira , goat-skins, hides, orchal, coffee,
sugar, live birds, &c. When the rains are abundant large
quantities of corn and beans are exported. The approxi¬
mate value of the exports is about $500,000 a year.
The imports consist of English and French cotton goods,
wines of all kinds, ready-made clothing, flour, butter, iron¬
work, &c., and woolen stuffs, such as cashmere, broadcloth,
alpaca, &c.
The most important place is the town of Praya, on the
island of St. Jago; it is the official residence of the gov¬
ernor and civil and military authorities.. The former lives
WINDS — TRADE-WINDS — H ARMATTAN. 1 1
part of the time at Brava, this island being more healthy
and more agreeable than St. Jago.
The Cape Verde Islands are in the zone of the NE. winds,
trades, which prevail there from November to July, often
blowing with much greater force than farther to the west¬
ward. During the stormy season, from July to November,
they are generally replaced by winds variable from SE. to
SW. This is the period of gales from SE. to SW., which
often blow with fury and render the anchorages which are
exposed to them very dangerous; this is also the season of
tornadoes and general stormy weather. It is a fact that in Trades,
this group the NE. trades are never constant nor so per¬
fectly established as farther to the westward, and it often
happens that they are lost in the vicinity of the islands and
followed by calms and variable winds; this is particularly
the case during the wet season. Vessels bound across the
line should modify their route according as they are going
to ports on the west coast of North or South Africa or South
America.
In the zone included between the meridian of the western-
most island and the coast, and extending south as far as the
equator, there are variations in the NE. trades, even dur¬
ing the fine season, which do not occur farther to the west¬
ward ; they are probably due to the vicinity of the coast of
Africa, the sun from July to October raising the tempera¬
ture of the land on the Guinea coast, and hence drawing the
wind from the S. and SW. Farther to the west; between
the meridians of 23° and 28° W., the NE. and SE. trades
are separated only by a narrow belt of variables and often
unite at the equator. In all routes to the westward there
is then an advantage in crossing the line to the westward
of the Cape Yerde Islands. The harmattan, which blows Harmattan.
from the coast during December, January, and February,
is charged with fine sand, which produces a thick haze and
droughts, but it is not unhealthy.
Fogs
•Currents.
12 CLIMATE — FOGS — CURRENTS & COUNTER-CURRENTS.
The following table, the result of a great many observa¬
tions, will give a general idea of the climate of the islands :
Months.
Winds.
Mean
barometer.
Thermome¬
ter — Fah¬
renheit.
Remarks.
January . ..
N. to NNW.
29. 98
0
68
Fresh breezes.
February . .
NNE. to N W.
29. 84
68
Do.
March _
NNE. to N.
29. 76
66
Do.
April .
N. and NNE.
29. 76
64
Strong winds ; dew.
May .
HE. and NNE.
29. 80
66
Fresh Winds ; dew.
June .
NE. toNW.
29. 92
77
Cloudy toward end of month.
July .
NE. to SW.
30. 07
80
Cloudy ; variable winds ; tor¬
nadoes.
August ....
NE to SSW. and
SSE.
29. 76
84
Tornadoes; rains; very hot.
September .
MW. to SSE.
29. 80
82
Tornadoes; rains; fogs.
October -
NE. to SW.
29. 88
82
Cloudy ; rains ; dews ; mists.
November .
NNE. toSW.
29. 80
71
Fresh breezes ; dews; squalls.
December..
E. to NNE.
29. 80
71
Fresh breezes.
Fogs are frequent and v^ry thick.
The islands are in the track of the African, Polar, and
Guinea Currents, which set to the SW. with a velocity of
J of a mile per hour, influenced more or less by the force of
the prevailing wind. The western limit of the Polar Current
at the parallel of Cape Verde lies between the Islands of Sal
and Boavista and between Mayo and St. Jago ; from thence
its direction is SW. Among the islands the currents are
sometimes variable, but they set generally to the S. and
SW. ; very rarely to the XW., and still more rarely to the
SE. or ESE. Farther to the westward, at about the me¬
ridians of 26° and 27° W., the currents, being clear of the
islands, generally set to the SW., WSW., and W. To the
southward of the islands, as far as the equator, and in the
belt included between the southern limit of the Polar and
northern limit of the Equatorial Currents, their directions
are very variable.
The eastern branch of the Polar Current is lost below the
parallel of 10° north latitude in very irregular drifts, which,
combined with the counter-currents of the Equatorial, gen¬
erally set, especially between July and October, to the
ESE., E., and NE. This is again subdivided, one of the
branches passing to the southward of Cape Palmas, and
taking the name of The Current of Northern. Guinea, and
the other setting to the NE. and N., and near the coast
even to the XW., as far as the Bissagos Islands. After
the southwest winds (solar breezes) mentioned above, there
DIRECTIONS — PASSAGES — FOUL CHANNELS. 13
is, near the coast of Senegambia, a change in the direction
of the current which lasts for several days.
All the islands are high and may be seen from a great ti^®neral direCk
distance when the weather is clear. Unfortunately fogs
and mists frequently hang around the islands, rendering the
making of the land difficult, and too great caution cannot
be exercised when running for them. The general set of
the currents is to the westward, particularly near Sal and
Boavista, and these currents have occasioned the loss of a
large number of ships approaching the islands from the
eastward. Although it may seem improbable that there
would be any considerable error in the reckoning in so short
a passage as from the Canaries to the Cape Yerdes, still
there are many instances of such, as well in easting as in
westing. It will be prudent, therefore, as regards errors
in westing, to keep 20 leagues to the eastward of Boavista
before standing in to make the land, lest in keeping a direct
course for that island you should pass between St. Nicholas
and Sal Islands, and find yourself to the westward of Boa-
vista when your reckoning placed you to the east of it. It
is always advantageous to approach the islands from the
northward during the trades. Vessels coming from the
southward will be exposed to calms and squalls, and beat¬
ing through the passages is often tedious, as the wind draws
through with force and causes a rough sea.
Although as a rule these channels are clear and safe, some Passages be-
precautious must be taken, depending on the strength andands.
direction of the prevailing wind. The channel between St-
Antonio and St. Vincent should only be taken with a fair
wind. Very little would be gained in beating against the
NE. wind, which is strong here and often accompanied by
a SW. current. If obliged to attempt it, it will be better
to hug the south coast of St. Antonio, where the wind is
often lighter and the sea smoother than in the middle. Near
the north shore of St. Vincent there is generally a coun¬
ter-current setting NE., but the coast of St. Antonio is
bolder, and safer when beating close in shore.
The passage between St. Vincent and St. Lucia is marked Foul channel.
Foul Channel on the charts. Her Majesty’s ship Leven
beat through and did not find less than 6 fathoms, with 15
fathoms in mid-channel. With a strong wind the sea is very
rough, and often breaks, which is caused by the swift, irregu¬
lar currents, as the depth of water is said to be from 14 to 17
fathoms in the middle, decreasing toward the shores. It
should be taken only with a manageable wind.
14 NAVIGATION OF THE CHANNELS BET. THE ISLANDS.
St. Lucia and
Branca.
Baza and
Nicholas.
Sal and
vista.
Boa-
Boavista
Mayo.
Unless wishing to anchor off the eastern coast of St.
Lucia, it is better not to take the passage between that isl¬
and and Branca. The one between Raza and St. Nicholas
is preferable. The same remarks apply to the channel be-
Branca and Ka- tween Baza and Branca. If attempted keep nearer Raza,
as the water is deeper. In the channel between Raza and
st St. Nicholas the currents are very irregular, and it is better
to go through only with a fair wind.
Vessels may pass between Sal and Boavista, but it is
preferable to keep nearer Sal Islaud as there are some dan¬
gers on the shores of the other, viz, the Hartwell Reefs
and Bonetta Rock, the existence and position of the latter
not being positively known. At night, and even in the day¬
time, if the land is not perfectly recognized, it will not be
prudent to take the passage.
In the channel between Boavista and Mayo there is a
dangerous reef called Leton Rock, which is fully described
on page 32. On account of this danger this passage should
not be taken at night or during thick weather. When the
land can be distinctly seen and recognized, it is safe and
practicable, keeping about 4 miles from Boavista, if bound
to that islaud ; but if going to Mayo, it is better to pass be¬
tween it and the rock, keeping 5 or 6 miles from the island.
At all times, when standing near Mayo, a sharp lookout
must be kept for Galhao Reef, which lies off the north point
of the island. The currents generally set a few degrees to
the W. of S., with a velocity of from J to § of a mile per
hour, according to the strength of the wind. They must be
T May° and st. noted and allowed for. Between Mayo and St. Jago the
channel is narrower than the two preceding ; it is clear and
navigable at all times, although it would be difficult to beat
through against a fresh NE. breeze. When enteriug from
the northward, whatever may be the direction of the wind,
it is better to avoid the east shore of St. Jago, near which
are calms, violent squalls, and often a current setting to the
SW. and W. St. Jago should never be approached close
to, especially with the wind at NE., on account of the calms
caused by the deflection of the winds by the high land, and
the heavy swell which sets toward the shore on the east
side. Blisset Reefs, off the south side of Mayo, must be
given a good berth.
Jago and The passage between St. Jago and Fogo is wide, safe,
and practicable at all times. It is better, in general, to
steer a middle course or to keep a little nearer to Fogo,
especially with the wind at NE., to avoid the calms to lee-
TIDES, SOUNDINGS, COASTS — ST. ANTONIO.
15
ward of St. Jago, and also the currents, which are stronger
off its SW. shore than in any other part of the passage.
In the narrow passage between Fogo and Brava the winds
are always strong, particularly those from the northward, '
(NW, to NE.) It can only be taken with a fair wind, and
Fogo should be approached nearer than Brava, particularly
at night, on account of the Rornbos Islets. Vessels may
pass midway between these islets and Brava.
To recapitulate: in navigating the passages between these
islands it is necessary to watch closely, and avoid as much
as possible the calms, currents, and squalls which are found
there. If not bound to any port in the islands, it is always
preferable to pass to the westward of the whole group,
sighting St. Antouio.
The establishment of the port varies in the archipelago
from 6 hours to 7 hours 45 minutes. Rise and fall from 4
to 6.5 feet.
The depth of water is very great near all the Cape Verde
Islands, and the bank of soundings is often so narrow that
the anchorage, if there is any, may become dangerous.
The greater part of the coasts are abrupt, formed by high,
perpendicular cliff's, and cut up by deep ravines which pre¬
sent in a few places sandy beaches. The south sides of
Mayo, Sal, and particularly Boavista, are exceptions, pre¬
senting almost everywhere sandy shores divided by rocky
points.
ST. ANTONIO.
St. Antonio, the northwestern and largest island of the
group, is 22J miles long from E. to W., and about the same
distance ENE. and WSW. ; it is principally inhabited in
the northeastern part, where the coast is divided by two
ravines at the bottoms of which there are a little verdure and
a few small villages. The climate is healthy, and its soil is
the most productive of any in the group ; it produces about
1,000 quintals of excellent coffee, of which 50 per cent, is
exported ; also 500 pipes of wine ; tafia, sugar, and corn.
There is a source of mineral waters containing lead and tin
which has not yet been explored. The population, from
18,000 to 20,000 souls, live in an almost savage state, and
are without education or religion. Seen from a distance,
and particularly from the westward, St. Antonio appears
like an assemblage of high mountains ; in fact, its central
part is traversed by a chain, which extends from the east¬
ern point nearly to the western, and then turns abruptly to
the southward, almost at a right angle to its former direc-
Fogo and Bra>
Tides.
Soundings.
Coasts.
1G ST. ANTONIO — ANCHORAGES, WATER, SHOALS, ETC.
tion. To the westward of this chain is the Sugar Loaf
Mountain, the highest summit on the island, (7,386 feet.)
Between this peak and the main ridge is an immense ravine,
at the bottom of which a torrent flows towards the north
coast. The coast of St. Antonio is perfectly safe, all dan¬
gers lying close to. It is almost everywhere abrupt except
at the mouths of the streams ; these streams irrigate the
soil and take the place of rains in fertilizing it.
Anchorage off Pointa do Sol, or North Point, extends, as a low, sandy,.
point, some distance from the cliffs, with a reef about £ mile
beyond it. There is a custom-house here ; also a chapel and
some stores and houses. Anchorage may be taken to the
west of the point, and WNW. of the custom-house, in from
8 to 16 fathoms. This anchorage is on the open coast, and
is sheltered from winds from SW. to SE. (through S.) by
the island. Although the winds from the northward blow
directly on this coast, the native seamen affirm that they
do not blow home at the anchorage, being deflected by the
high land, and that their existence would not be known
were it not for the heavy swell which sets in to the anchor¬
age.
Directions. Pass at least 1 mile from North Point to avoid the Cavallo
Blanco Reef, which extends about £ mile from it, and over
which the sea continually breaks. After doubling the point
a white spot will be seen on the rocks, off which the anchor
may be let go in 8 fathoms, sandy bottom, under high cliffs
which rise perpendicularly from the sea.
water. Water in small quantities may be obtained from a spring
near the beach. The landing is in a little creek near the
village, and is bad when the sea is at all rough.
Tarrafai Bay. Tarrafal Bay is situated about 2 miles north of South
Point; it is sheltered from winds from S. to N. (through E.)
Westerly winds do not blow home, it is said, but sometimes
there is a swell which produces a surf on the beach. On
the edge of the bank of soundings, which is £ of a mile off
shore, there are 40 fathoms, decreasing gradually for 1 cable
to 8 fathoms, and then falling suddenly to 4 fathoms.
Shoals. About 300 yards N 16° E. of the south point of the bay
is a shoal about 1 cable long, with 3 and 4 fathoms on it; off
its south side are 6, and off the north side 8 fathoms. Two
hundred yards N 65° W. of the same point there is another
small patch with 4 fathoms; 5 fathoms off the northern and
6 fathoms off the southern edge.
Directions. Tarrafal Bay may be known by a green plantation, and
a black, sandy beach under a cliff, that come in view after
rounding South Point. A good berth may be had in 36
TIDES, WATER, ANCHORAGES— ST. VINCENT. 17
fathoms, 3 cables off shore, with a red mark in the cliff
bearing E f N. Caution will be required in anchoring, as
the shore is steep-to. Anchorage may also be taken at
about 2 cables off shore and farther to the northward in 20
fathoms.
It is high water, full and change, at Tarrafal Bay at 7b: Tides,
rise of tide about 5 feet.
The best water in the group may be obtained here, as also water,
provisions.
The anchorage at Carvoeiros, on the SE. coast of the Anchorage
island, and nearly in front of Porto Grande, in the island of arvoeiros-
St. Vincent, is on the open coast, and is good only during the
NE. trades. Anchorage is taken off the mouth of the river
Janella, abreast the chapel, in from 8 to 14 fathoms, from 1
to 2 miles from the beach. There is a small village here, and
plenty of water and fire- wood may be obtained. The landing
is abreast the houses, but can only be reached by passing
through a channel 30 feet wide, which is dangerous after
heavy rains.
Anchorage may also be taken off Simao, situated LJ miles Anchorage.
SE. of Carvoeiros, in from 8 to 11 fathoms. It is good dur¬
ing the NE. trades only. Water and fire-wood may be
obtained.
Santa Cruz, the capital of the island, is 12 miles to the Santa Cruz,
westward of East Point, in the fertile plain of Ribiera
Grande. Off the point, If miles to the westward of the vil¬
lage, a reef and foul ground extend about a mile, narrow¬
ing the channel between St. Antonio and St. Vincent to (3
miles, in a SE b E. direction.
One-half mile off the northern part of East Point is a Bun Rock,
rocky islet called Bull Rock.
ISLAND OF ST. VINCENT.
The island of St. Vincent is very high and undulating.
It is separated from Santa Lucia by a passage about
miles wide, and from St. Antonio by one from 7 to 8 miles
wide. The island is 13 miles long from E. to W., and its
greatest breadlh from £T. to S. is 0 miles. Two principal
chains facing NE. and SW. surround it, forming in the cen¬
ter a deep gorge opening to the NW. on the beautiful val¬
ley of Porto Grande. The highest point (2,483 feet) is in the
middle of the HE. chain. It is principally inhabited by
fishermen and the numerous workmen attracted thither by
the coal-depots. The climate is said to be healthy. Water
is very scarce, and the trees do not flourish, on account of
2 d v
18 ST. VINCENT — DIRECTIONS, SOUNDINGS, BOTTOM, ETC.
Salmassa Bay.
Dos Gato’s
Bay.
Bird Island.
Porto Grande.
Points Colum-
na and Botelha.
Soundings.
Bottom
Directions.
tlie violence of the winds. The coast is generally high and
abrupt, and without dangers.
There are two small bays on the NE. side, with sandy
beaches, but they are entirely open and are not frequented.
Bird Island is a rocky islet 273 feet high, GOO yards long
from N. to S., and 150 yards broad. When seen from the N.
or S. it appears conical in shape. It is on the parallel of
Point Oolumna, and about 1 mile from it 5 it is bold, forms
a good landmark, and may be passed on either side.
Porto Grande , situated on the NW. side of the island, is
the largest and best bay in the group; it is 3J miles wide at
the entrance, from Point Oolumna on the north to Point Bo¬
telha on the south, 1J miles deep, and is sheltered from wind
and sea to the northward by St. Antonio, and on all other sides
by the high lands which surround it. It is capable of hold¬
ing 200 large vessels anchored in from 4 to 13 fathoms, on
a sand and gravel bottom. With the wind at NE. violent
squalls often come off the mountains, and all prevailing
winds send in a swell which is particularly disagreeable if
the ship is riding to the counter-current and across the
entrance.
Point Oolumna is high and abrupt; at the foot of the
cliff which terminates it is a large rock which, from a dis¬
tance, resembles a column. The cliffs near this point, and
also in the vicinity of Point Botelha, are high and steep.
Between the points of the entrance the depth is even,
with 24 fathoms in the center, shoaling gradually on the
west side to 9 fathoms at J cable from shore ; to the east¬
ward there are 17 fathoms within 80 yards of the rocks. In
the center of the bay the depth is 10 fathoms, shoaling grad¬
ually in all directions towards the shore, the Orontes Bank?
with 21 feet on it, being the only obstruction. The 4-fathom
limit is about J mile from the bottom of the bay and 1 mile
from Custom-House Point. The holding-ground is good;
bottom generally of sand and gravel or sand and mud.
In the SE. part of the bay the bottom seems to be of rock
covered with a thick bed of sand ; therefore it will be pru¬
dent to cockbill the anchor before letting go, as there are
numerous cases on record of anchor-stocks being broken
from not taking this precaution. The water is very clear,
and on a calm day the bottom can be seen in 7 fathoms.
Making the laud of the Cape Yerde Islands is sometimes
difficult on account of the fogs which often prevail, so thick
at times that St. Antonio cannot be seen from Porto Grande,
.although only 8 miles distant. When coming from the
[northward it will be better to run for St. Antonio, whose
ST. VINCENT— ANCHORAGES AND APPROACHES. 19
shores are bold and high, than for St. Vincent, whose NE.
point is low and consequently dangerous.
From a point 12 miles NE. of St. Vincent its southeast
point will appear like an island. When off the eastern en¬
trance of the channel, between St. Antonio and St. Vincent,
Bird Island will be easily recognized, as also the curious
rock off Point Oolumna, and, farther on, Point Botelha, so
called from the bottle-shaped rock which surmounts it. The
best course is inside of Bird Island, making allowance for
the tidal. current which sets to the NE. during the flood.
Sailing-vessels should reduce sail, as the squalls are heavy
over the land. When off the entrance, the fort, on a hill
to the left of the town, will be seen, and about 1 mile N 55°
E. of the fort a peak, on the summit of which is a flag¬
staff used for signaling the approach of the mail-steamers.
Moorings are laid down in 5 fathoms £ mile W}S. from
the coaling -jetties ; they are corvettes’ cables, and large
vessels should not rely on them. If in want of coal a berth
should be taken as near the buoys as possible, where the Anchorage,
water is smoother and the squalls less felt than elsewhere.
A good berth is in from 6 to 7 fathoms, Bird Island bearing
N 22° Wv and the fort 1ST 61° E. ; also in 8 fathoms, the sig¬
nal-staff bearing X 80° E., the church S 75° E., and Bird
Island N 25° W. A good berth for a large vessel is in 10
fathoms, Bird Island bearing N 20° W. and the fort E 3° S.
During the NE. trade, violent squalls are frequent,, and ves¬
sels should always have an anchor ready to let go in case of
parting or drifting.
Approaching Porto Grande from the' southward, Bird Approach from
Island should be left on the port hand. When coming from
Tarrafal Bay care must be taken not to be set to leeward
by the current. The NE. winds are very fresh in the pas¬
sage between the islands, and the current sets with consider- Approach from
able velocity to the SW. ; hence it will be better to steer toTariatalBay*
the eastward along St. Antonio for some distance before
striking across to Porto Grande.
Going into Porto Grande at night the high land all around Approach r.t
night.
is very deceptive, and Bird Island is the only guide : it always
shows clearly and distinctly even in the darkest nights. After
passing it bring it to bear NW b N J N., and anchor on
that bearing in 6 fathoms, sandy bottom, the west point of
the bay bearing W J S.
Orontes Bank is a shoal of about 1 cable in extent, with 0rontes
21 feet of water on it. Its center lies on the following bear¬
ings, (taken from chart:) Bird Island N 25° W. ; fort N 45°
E. ; church E 3° N. Hydrographische Mittheilungen , No. 19,
Notice.
Tide.
Resources.
Coal.
Water.
San Pedro Bay.
Still Bay.
20 TIDES, RESOURCES, COAL, WATER — ST. LUCIA.
for 1873, states that “ the German sloop of war Undine did
not find the Orontes Bank as laid down on the charts, but
there is a 3-fathom patch to the eastward of it;” also “the
soundings showed somewhat less depth inside the two moor¬
ing-buoys than shown on the British Admiralty chart 370 and
United States Hydrographic Office chart No. 253, which, how¬
ever, may arise from the influence of the constant and often
very high swell. The 3-fathom line trends about a cable’s
length farther seaward, especially off the town, while the 5
fathom line approaches somewhat closer to the coa^t.” Ships
of 20 feet draught and more should not anchor inside the buoy.
It is high water, full and change, at 7h. Rise of tide about
2£ feet.
This harbor is the port of call for mail-steamers to and
from South America and the west coast of Africa, as well
as for men-of-war vessels of all nations. Coal is brought
off in bags, in iron barges holding about 20 tons each, towed
by steam-launches, and is put on board very rapidly. The
water from the wells is hardly fit for cooking; good distilled
water may, however, be obtained, but it would be cheaper for
steam-vessels to distill their own. Other supplies may be
had to a moderate extent. This harbor is well adapted for
refitting in and for acclimatizing the crews of vessels going to
the African station. The climate is healthy and there are
no endemic diseases. The landings are good alongside the
coal- wharves. The old fort near the town is armed with four
old guns, which would probably be dangerous to fire. The
station is commanded by a major of artillery, who has about
50 poorly clad Portuguese soldiers under him.
On the SW. coast is a little bay called San Pedro. Ves¬
sels may anchor off the sandy beach in from 10 to 12 fath¬
oms during the fine season ; it is entirely open from SE. to
SW. Water and wood may be obtained there.
Still Bay is a little cove a few miles to the westward of
the south point of the island ; it is miles wide at the
entrauce, and anchorage may be taken nearly in the middle
and just inside of a line joining the two points, in 20 fath¬
oms; sand and mud bottom. Landing is easy; the bay is
open to SW., but good with NE. winds. A bank extends
from this bay to Porto Grande, J mile from the shore, with
a depth of 15 fathoms ; bottom of sand and coral.
ST. LUCIA ISLAND.
St. Lucia, which is 7 miles long ESE. and WNW., 2 miles
broad in its western and 1 mile in the eastern part, is sep¬
arated from St. Vincent by a channel 44 miles wide, and
ST. LIT CIA — AN CHOR AGE, RUINS, ETC. — BRANCA. 21
from Branca by one 3J miles wide. In the middle of the
latter there are 13 fathoms, decreasing gradually toward
either shore. There is no fixed population, and the island
is visited only by herdsmen and laborers, who come in March
to collect orchilla in the mountains.
The eastern partis high and covered with hummocks.
When seen at a distance from N. or S. it appears like an
island. From thence it is low to the south point, where it
rises to about 1 ,000 feet, and continues high toward the NW.,
where it is traversed by a range of hills running WNW.
and ESE. The highest point (1,209 feet) is in the middle
of the island.
The shore is almost everywhere rocky and inaccessible;
but in the SW. part, between Pointa da Cruz and Monte
Grande, (the south and west points,) there is a little cove,
with a sandy beach, off which vessels may anchor in from
7 to 14 fathoms, sand and stony bottom, with Leon Island
bearing ENE. Leon Island is quite high, and about 200
yards from the beach, in the SE. part of the cove, the bot¬
tom is rocky. This anchorage is only good during the fine
season.
A little to the northward of the south point of the island,
(Pointa da Cruz,) which is crowned with a conical height of
900 feet, are the ruins of a village and some wells of brack¬
ish water. The south coast trends E. and W., and a plateau
of shoals, on which there are from 13 to 16 feet, extends
along it about J mile from the shore. There is a good land¬
ing in a little indentation situated nearly in the middle of
this coast.
In navigating between St. Lucia and Branca the S. and
E. parts of St. Lucia should not be approached within one
mile, as the ground is uneven. There are soundings, also,
2 or 3 miles to windward of St. Lucia, and the water is dis¬
colored, which may serve as a guide in approaching the
island.
BRANCA ISLAND.
Branca, lying SE. of St. Lucia, is a small island 2 miles
long and about J mile broad. It is high and almost inac¬
cessible, except in very fine weather. Monte Gordo, in the
west, is 1,456 feet high. The east point is low and sandy,
and has a reef extending out about two cables. Vessels
may anchor off the point in 3 fathoms, but the squalls
oil' Monte Gordo are very heavy. The NE. coast is steep,
with from 6 to 10 fathoms close to ; J mile off the 8W.
shore the soundings vary from 12 to 15 fathoms. The port
Anchorage
Leon Island
Ruins.
Wells
Shoals.
Caution.
Anchorage.
22 BRANCA, RAZA, ST. NICHOLAS — DESCRIPTIONS.
and village of Branca are on the northwest side of the
island. Orchilla abounds. Fresh water may be obtained
near the village. It is high water, full and change, at St.
Lucia and Branca about 8b. The flood sets to the west¬
ward and the ebb to the eastward with a velocity of 2 knots
during the springs.
RAZA ISLAND.
Baza lies 3 miles SE. of Branca, with irregular sound¬
ings between them of from 6 to 20 fathoms. The island is
almost round and the shores are steep and nearly inacces¬
sible. The highest point on the island is 316 feet; in its
eastern part there are a number of hillocks. There is a bad
lauding on the west side near the west point. There are a
few inhabitants, who gather orchilla and tend the cotton-
: plantations. The latest French directions state that at one*
; third of the distance from Baza to Branca there is a coral
plateau, running NNE. and SSW., on which the least
depth is 5.3 fathoms, increasing gradually to the west to
14J fathoms, and to the east to 17 and 20 fathoms. It is
recommended, in taking this passage, to approach Baza
rather than Branca. These soundings do not agree exactly
with the English charts. The sea is said always to break
on this bank, on account of the strong -tide or current set¬
ting through.
ST. NICHOLAS ISLAND.
The island of St. Nicholas is irregular in shape ; it is 25
miles long from E. to W., and its. greatest breadth is 13
miles. The eastern point forms a low plateau, remarkable
for a pyramidal rock, which at a little distance resembles a
sail. The western point is low and sandy. The northwest
portion is the highest, where Monte Gordo attains an eleva¬
tion of 4,415 feet ; to the northward of this is Mount Marti¬
nez, which is 3,412 feet high ; from thence high mountains
extend to the eastward, conspicuous among them being the
Sugar-Loaf (2,007 feet) near the middle of the island. In
clear weather these mountains can be seen 45 miles. The
coast is bold and cliffy. There are no anchorages on the north
coast, and it should not be approached nearer than 3 miles,
on account of the currents and the calms produced by the
high land. The climate is*very healthy and the soil well
cultivated. The inhabitants, 7,000 in number, are indus¬
trious. The products are vegetables, fruits, and corn, and
also about 400 pipes of wine. The imports are lumber,
glass ware, and iron. Praya Branca, situated in the mount-
ST. NICHOLAS — WATER, TIDES, ANCHORAGE, ETC. 23
ains to the NW., and about 3 miles from the coast, is the
most important place ; it contains about 300 houses.
Freshwater or Oarrical Bay is 3£ miles west of East Freshwater
Point. In a ravine at the bottom of the bay the river Oar- 5
rical empties into a pond from which good water may be
obtained. During the fine season the anchorage is exposed
to violent squalls which come off the hills, and although the
wind blows off shore the sea is very rough close up to the
beach. Vessels only come here for water.
When coming from the eastward care must be taken to Directions,
avoid a reef, which from about 2J miles west of East Point
extends out J mile from the shore, over which the sea breaks.
After passing the eastern point of Freshwater Bay, steer in
for the beach, and when the coast to the eastward is shut in
by this point let go the anchor in 7 fathoms, J mile from
shore, on a sand and gravel bottom. This anchorage must
not be attempted during stormy weather; in this case it is
better to anchor in St. George’s Bay. Water should be Water,
taken at low tide ; the tide rises 6 J feet and at high water Tides,
the pond is overflowed. The lauding is good during fine
weather. The establishment in this bay is 7 11 46m.
On the eastern side of the tongue of land which extends Saint George’s
to the southward, and 10 miles west of Freshwater Bay, isBay'
au anchorage in St. George’s Bay, called Rolla Boad, where Eoiia Road,
provisions and a small quantity of water may be obtained.
This roadstead is 5| miles north of South Point, and is
easily recognized by the conical Mount Formosa which over¬
looks it, and also by the flag-staff of Fort Preguiz, which is
situated on a height near the shore. Off Point Ellicombe,
the northeast point of the bay, a rocky shelf extends SE. about
1 cable, and off the southern point, Point Krabbe, there is a
line of breakers which should not be approached nearer
than | of a mile. Anchorage is taken at 2 good cables Anchorage,
from the beach, in from 10 to 13 fathoms, sandy bottom;
the flag-staff on the fort bearing N 74° VV. From 9 fathoms Soundings,
the soundings increase rapidly to 17, 35, and 52 fathoms ;
aud as outside of 9 fathoms the bottom is rocky, vessels
must anchor near the shore. Violent squalls off the mount¬
ains are frequent. There is a good landing in a little cove
about 2 cables south of the anchorage ; a small island,
lying off it, shelters it from the sea. There are here a few
houses and a custom-house, and the place is much fre¬
quented on account of its vicinity to Ribeira Brava, the
capital of the island.
No particular directions are required. Steer for Mount Directions.
Formosa, when seen, and anchor, as stated above, when the
24 ST. NICHOLAS— BAYS, WATER, SOUNDINGS, COAST, ETC.
♦
fort bears N 74° W. If coming from tbe southward allow¬
ance must be made for the current, which sets to the south
toward Point Vermelharia. Be sure of the soundings before
letting go the anchor. If a pilot is wanted, fire a gun.
ForcadoBay. Between Preguiza and Point Vermelharia there are sev¬
eral small coves. The first, called Forcado, is situated be¬
tween two rocky points surrounded by breakers; in-shore
the depths are from 11 to 22 feet, increasing suddenly, 1 mile
from the beach, to 28 arid 50 fathoms. There is another
small bay on the south coast, between Points Vermelharia
LapaBay. and Fidalgo, called Lapa Bay, which is good during the
NE. trades. Water and refreshments may be obtained.
Tarrafai Bay. Tarrafal Bay is 5J miles to the northward of the south
point of the island, (Pqiut Vermelharia,) and is open from
SW. to W. At | of a mile from the beach there is a depth
of 45 fathoms, and from thence the soundings decrease regu¬
larly but rapidly to 8 fathoms. The custom-house is in the
SE. angle of the bay. A good berth may be taken in
about 10 fathoms on the following bearings : South Point
SSE £ E., custom-house E b S J S., and Mount Otto do
Mar NbE. The anchorage is sheltered from SE. winds,
and it is said that those from the SW. never blowT with force.
Violent gusts often come from the two gullies to the east¬
ward, and therefore when the wind is strong from the NE.
it is very difficult to turn into the bay. To avoid these
flaws, vessels must anchor right against the point which
divides the gullies, where they will ride easy under its lee
„ . in about 15 fathoms. There is said to be a current setting
into the bay; therefore, when coming from the southward,
a good berth should be given to the coast, for if becalmed
under the land a vessel might be drifted on shore,
water. Water may be easily obtained, as also provisions, from
the houses of the shepherds near the anchorage. Bibeira
Brava is 0 miles in the interior. ‘
coast. From Tarrafal Bay to the west point of St. Nicholas there
Soundings. js a bank of soundings with from 40 to 20 fathoms J mile
Anchorage, from shore. In the last depth there is anchorage on sandy
ground off the west point. The shore is low and sandy, the
land rising gradually inland. On the contrary, from the
custom-house to South Point the coast is high and lined
with rocks.
Northwest A little to the northward of West Point, and in front of
Mt. Gonedo and the village of Praya Branca, is a small bay,
with an islet in the middle called Northwest Bay ; it is
suitable only for small craft.
SAL ISLAND — COAST, REEFS, ROCKS, AND RESOURCES. 25
From West Point the coast trends about NE. for 7 miles,
where the north point of the island is formed by a round,
cliffy point having a summit 2,311 feet high. At the north¬
west side of the point is a sand bank, and a reef of rocks
stretches to the northward 5 cables. E b S J S., 8 miles dis¬
tant, is Northeast Point, the coast between forming a bight
24 miles deep. Eastward of the point the coast trends E
by S. for 13 miles to East Point, and is composed principally
of cliffs having rocks or sand at their bases.
SAL ISLAND.
Sal Island is 17 J miles long from N. to S., 7 miles broad
in the widest and 2 miles in the narrowest part. In the
northern part are several isolated peaks, the highest being
the conic il Martinez, which is 1,340 feet high, and in clear
weather may be seen from a distance of 50 or 60 miles. The
southern part is low and sandy.
The northern and eastern shores are abrupt and cliffy,
and along the latter coast there is an almost continuous
line of reefs and breakers. To the northward of East Point,
(which is marked by a little conical hill on the edge of the
cliff,) and off Point Serra Negra, several islets and rocks ex¬
tend out about 4 mile, but are inside of the meridian of the
Eastern Point. The southeast point of the island is called
Wreck Point, the English sloop of war Erne having been
wrecked there in 1819. It is low, sandy, and surrounded by a
reef. Great caution is required in approaching the southern
point at night, as the land can hardly be seen 10 miles off,
even in the day-time. The lead should be kept going, and
vessels should not get inside of the 30-fathom line. Horn
Point is the northwestern point of the island : it is a cliff sur¬
mounted by a hillock. From this point the coast deepens
to Manuel Point situated to the northward of Northwest Hill ;
from thence it trends toward the south, forming a number of
little bays. The anchorages are all bad on the NW., N., and
E. coasts. From Wreck Point to Northwest Hill the depths
vary, permitting an anchorage in some of the bays.
There are numerous salt-ponds on the island, and the salt
extracted is the principal production of the island. The
soil, even in the valleys, is so barren as to bear no trees nor
verdure except a few inconsiderable shrubs. A railroad has
been built to carry the salt to the shore. The only village
on the island is in South Bay, (Santa Maria,) situated on
the south coast. It is difficult to procure either water or
provisions.
North Point.
Northeas
Point.
Martinez Peak .
Coast.
Reefs.
Rocks.
Wreck Point.
Horn Point.
Manuel Point.
Resources.
Village.
26 SAL ISLAND — CURRENTS, ANCHORAGES, WATER, ETC.
Currents.
Making land.
South Bay.
Anchorage.
Caution.
Port Salina.
Mordeira Bay.
Anchorage.
Water.
Tides.
Turtle Point.
Lion’s Head.
Bird Island.
On approaching Sal from the north it will frequently be
found that the currents are strong, irregular, and influenced
by the wind, this island being almost on the western limit
of the African-Polar current. In clear weather the island may
be seen from a distance of 40 miles ; sometimes Martinez Peak
can be seen still further ; these are exceptional cases, however,
as the high lands of all the Cape Verde Islands are generally
covered with clouds.
South Bay lies between Wreck Point and South Point;
these points are distant from each other 2 miles, bearing W
3 S. and E f X.
Anchorage may be taken in 7 fathoms in the middle of the
bay, just inside of a line joining the two points. Too great-
caution cannot, however, be exercised in navigating near
South Point, as a sandy spit extends from it nearly 1 mile
SE J S., with 14 fathoms close to and 25 fathoms at 1J miles.
Wreck Point is low and fronted by rocks for 3 mile. The
soundings in the bay near the beach vary from 3 to 4 fath¬
oms, and in the middle from 5 to 10 fathoms. To enter the
bay Wreck Point must be rounded at 1J miles, in irom 9 to
12 fathoms, and the anchor let go when the two points are
in line. Vessels may also anchor on the west side of South
Point in 7 fathoms, J mile off shore, with Wreck Poiut just
shut in. This anchorage is called Port Salina, it being near
the artificial- salt pans
Mordeira Bay, situated between Turtle Point and the Lion’s
Head, is the best anchorage in the island. It is sheltered
from X. to XE. One mile off shore the soundings are 9, 10, or
11 fathoms, decreasing gradually to the rocks, near which
there are 1J and 2 fathoms. In some places the bottom is.
bad, and thesoundings should be examined before anchoring.
The best berth is in 9 fathoms, 1 mile from the Lion’s Head,
with Bird Island just shut in and Turtle Point bearing S
by E 3 E. Xo water can be obtained. Fish and turtles
abound.
It is high water, full and change, at 7h 45™. Rise of tide
about 5.2 feet.
Turtle Point is a low, irregular point of land, surrounded
by rocks and breakers, near which are 3 and 6 fathoms,
with 16 fathoms 1 mile off shore.
Lion’s Head Point is high and overlooked by a hill whose
form gives its name to the point. This hill is 620 feet high.
Off the point lies Bird Island, which is a small island con¬
nected to it by rocks. From it Turtle Poiut bears SE 3 S.
distant 4 miles.
SAL ISLAND, PALMIRA BAY — BOAVISTA, DESCRIPTION OF. 27
Palmira Bay lies between the Lion’s Head and Palmira
Point. It is 3J miles wide, but not very deep. Anchorage
may be taken 1 mile from the shore, in from 10 to 17 fathoms,
or, closer in, in from 8 to 5 fathoms; it is entirely open and
there is usually a heavy sea. Between Palmira Point and
Northwest Hill the soundings vary from 29 fathoms at 1 mile
off shore to 17 fathoms close to it.
Bonetta Bock, which was said to exist in lat. 16° 17' 20",
N., long. 22° 23' 50" W., has been searched for frequently,
but has never been found. It is probable that the vessels
reported to have been wrecked on this rock were drifted to
SW. by the current, and lost on Hartwell Reefs off the north¬
east coast of Boavista.
The currents in the vicinity of Boavista Island are very
irregular. Their general direction is between S. and W.
Near Sal Island they have been found setting N 75° W. and
N 8° W. Their average velocity is about J mile per hour.
Great caution is required, therefore, in approaching the
coast of Boavista, and considerable difference will often be
found between the dead-reckoning and the true position,
owing to these currents. There is no doubt that many
vessels have been lost on Hartwell and Braithwaite Reefs
when they were supposed to be many miles to the eastward
of Boavista.
BOAVISTA ISLAND.
Boavista, one of the largest islands in the group, is in
shape an irregular polygon ; it is 18 miles across from E. to
W., and 1G miles from N. to S. A ridge of high land, run¬
ning NNW. and SSE., divides it into two unequal parts.
The northern peak of this chain is called Juan Fernandez,
and the southern, South Mountain. In the northeast part of
the island are the two conical hills, Mounts Broyal and Ochel-
lo, and in the southwest Platform Hill and Man Mountain-
The climate is considered healthy. The inhabitants, 5,000 in
number, are noted for their extreme indolence. Cattle-
breeding is the principal resource of the island, large quan¬
tities of hides and tallow being exported annually. The
salt-ponds are very rich, and about 117,800 bushels of salt
are exported each year. The greater portion is obtained
from the artificial pans to the northward of English Road,
but the best comes from the natural ponds in the northern
part of the island. Some attempts have been made to raise
cotton, but without success.
With the exception of the principal headlands, the coast is
almost everywhere low and sandy. The northeast point is
Palmira Bay.
Anchorage.
Bonetta llock.
Currents.
Coast.
N. E. Point.
28 BOAVISTA — DESCRIPTIONS, REEFS, ISLETS, ETC.
East Sand
Head.
Brazen Hill
Point.
South Point.
West Point.
Reef.
Coral Point.
North Point.
Bluff Beef.
Broyal Point.
Porto do Norte.
Reefs and isl¬
ets.
high and lined with breakers. From thence the coast curves
slightly to East Sand Head or Point Orratao, and is every¬
where low and sandy. Off the latter point a sand bank ex¬
tends 1 mile NE., and a short. distance south another reef
stretches about the same distance to the eastward.
Point Estancia or Brazen Hill Bluff bears SW f W. from the
preceding. It is a high cliff easily recognized by the conical
height (East Hill) which surmounts it. From thence the coast
curves slightly toward the southward to South Point or Point
Urrateo, and is everywhere low. South Point is low and sur¬
rounded by foul ground, and an islet of the same description
lies § of a mile to the eastward. Between this point and
West Point the coast is low ; the latter is a low, sandy point
projecting some distance to the westward. Nearly midway
between this point and Coral Point, and a little to the south¬
ward of the parallel of Coral Hill, a long reef extends per¬
pendicularly to the coast 1 mile, and from thence to Coral
Point the shore is lined with breakers.
Point Yerandinha or Coral Point is low and rocky. From
thence the coast deepens, forming a long bay called English
Road. From the northern part of the bay to North Point
the coast is irregular and lined with foul ground. North
Point is high and abrupt, and may be recognized by Peak
Resher which overlooks it; it is surrounded by foul ground.
SW. of the point, and about \ mile off shore, is Bluff Reef,
on which the sea continually breaks. Between North Point
and Point Broyal, on the north side of the island, the coast
deepens and is low and sandy. There are several reefs near¬
ly in aline joining the two points. Point Broyal is very
irregular in shape and of moderate height. It may be recog¬
nized by a peak of the same name which rises a little to the
southward.
Between Point Hartwell, the northeast [point of the isl¬
and, and East Sand Head, lies a large bay called by the Portu¬
guese Porto do Norte. It is open to the NE., and affords a
poor anchorage with the wind from that quarter. Off this
bay are the Hartwell Reefs, North Cay, and Braithwaite and
Hutch Islets, surrounded by reefs. Between these there is
sufficient depth for ships, and a good holding-ground to lee¬
ward of Hartwell and Braithwaite. North Cay is nearest
the coast, and is connected with it by a line of reefs. This
anchorage should only be taken in case of necessity or during
the rainy season by vessels loading with salt from the neigh¬
boring salt-works.
The Hartwell reefs and islets, which we have mentioned
form three channels through which vessels may pass to
BOAVISTA — CHANNELS, DIRECTIONS, RESOURCES, ETC. 29
reach the anchorage. The best one is between Braithwaite Middle ciiau-
° nel
and Butch Islets; it is about If miles wide, and the sound¬
ings are regular from 14J to 5 fathoms. Anchorage may
be taken in from 5 to 7 fathoms J mile to leeward of Braith¬
waite, this islet bearing N 41° E., and Dutch Islet S 30° E.
The holding-ground is fair.
Hartwell Beef is about If miles from the coast, and be- North Channel,
tween its northwestern extremity and North Cay there is a
channel J mile wide. The least depth in this passage is 7
fathoms. This reef is very dangerous, as the currents here
set directly on it, and it must be carefully avoided when
taking the passages. It is composed of detached rocks, on
which there are only 9 and 13 feet of water, with depths of
22 feet in the spaces between them. North Gay is J mile
from the coast, to which it is joined by a bank on which
there is only 6 feet of water.
Between the reef around Dutch Islet and the reef off East South Channel .
Sand Head there is another channel, 6 cables wide, with a
depth of 10 fathoms.
Vessels should never attempt any of these passes without Directions,
having a boat ahead to take soundings and show the way.
In going from the anchorage to the SE. with the wiud from
ENE. or NE., steer to the southward, taking advantage of
the easterly current which generally prevails in the bay,
and pass between Dutch Island and the spit off East
Sand Head. If the wiud prevents taking this channel, steer
to the eastward between Braithwaite and Dutch Islands.
When in the vicinity of Hartwell Beef, if not bound to Caution.
Porto do Norte, the north point of Boavista should be kept
open of Broyal Point bearing W f S., and the southeast bluff
of the island open of the East Point bearing SW. § S. Too
great caution cannot be exercised at night or in thick
weather.
This bay is frequented, as has been stated above, by ves- Resources;
sels coming for salt during the rainy season. Fish abound,
and a small quantity of provisions may be obtained from
the village of San Joao Baptista]do Norte, which is about
3 miles from the anchorage.
In case of necessity, or to take a pilot, vessels may anchor Curraiinho.
between South Point and South Island in frbm 10 to 12
fathoms ; this anchorage is good with the wind at NE., but
at other times is dangerous.
To the westward of South Point is an anchorage in what K^°rt agues e
is called Portuguese Boad. The best berth is in 14 fathoms,
about 1 mile from shore, Platform Hill bearing N 3G° W.,
and South Island just shut in by South Point. From this
30 BO AVISTA — ENGLISH ROAD, SMALL ISLAND, REEFS, ETC.
anchorage the soundings diminish gradually to 7 and 6 fath¬
oms. In leaving this anchorage and going to the westward
a wide berth must be given to the point below Platform
Reef. Hill, as there is said to be a reef extending from it 3J miles
to seaward, on which the sea sometimes breaks. This reef is
not laid down on the charts, and a very wide berth should
therefore be given to the point.
Coral Reef. Veraudiuha or Coral Reef is on the parallel of Coral Hill,
and 1§ miles from the shore; it is § of a mile from E. to W.,
and a little less than £ mile from N. to S. ; its center bears
SW. b W J W., distant 2| miles from Coral Point. The
sea usually breaks on it, and sometimes shows the central
part out of water.
English Road. Porto Sal Rey or English Road lies to the northward of
Coral Point, (Point Verandinha.) Near the beach, in the
middle of the bay, is the village of Rahil or New Town,
founded in 1810 ; its church-clock makes a good mark in
approaching the anchorage. Between this village. and Old
Town, or Sal Rey, which is in the northern part, are numer¬
ous salt-pans. Near the old town is a mole where boats can
land at all times. The shores of the bay are principally sandy,
small island. Small Island is J mile from the northern point of the bay,
and is connected with it by a bank of rocks, over which
small boats can pass in hue weather; it is 1 mile long,
from NW. to SE. ; a bank extends J mile from its north¬
west extremity.
Ten-Foot Reef. English Road is 4J miles wide from Coral Point to the
southeast point of Small Island ; the entrance is divided into
two passes by the Ten-Foot Reef, a dangerous bank with only
10 feet of water on it, and on which the sea usually breaks;
this reef is 1^ cables long from E to W., and about 105
yards broad; its center lies on the following bearings: £
mile SW J S. of the SE. point, and 1J miles S J E. of the
northwest point of Small Island, and 3J miles NNE. of Coral
Point. In the passage between the reef and island there
is a depth of 0 fathoms. The shore of the latter is bold
and may be kept close aboard.
Reen already stated, this anchorage is safe during
the fine season, but during the rainy season, (July, August,
September,) the wind sometimes blows with force, from SE.
or SW., and sends in a heavy swell that renders it unsafe
for sailing-vessels. When there are indications of these
gales it will be prudent to put to sea.
Tides. It is high water, full and change, at Porta Praya at 6\
Bise of tide about 5 feet.
Supplies. Bullocks of a fair quality may be obtained. Game, fruit,
Wnter. and vegetables abound. The oranges are particularly fine
and are very cheap. Formerly water had to be rafted off in
casks j now it may be bought from a merchant of the town,
who sends it off to the ship. The best landing is in the north¬
west part of the bay near the town, a steep road leading to it.
Fish abound, and there is an excellent place for hauling the
seine in the western part.
Coal There is a coaling-station on Quail Island, but the facili¬
ties for coaling are not comparable with those at Porto
Grande and the island of St. Vincent.
Ribeira Grande. Bibeira Grande, commonly called La Cidade, is situated
in a ravine 9 miles west of Praya. This was formerly the
principal port of the island, but it is now only accessible for
small craft, the old anchorage having been blocked up.
There are several other small bays or coves on the coast
of St. Jago, but they are generally practicable only for small
craft. At 4 miles west of Bibeira Grande there is a small
PortComicos. cove called Port Comicos; from thence the coast trends to
Port San Anto- the NW., and at 10 miles further ou is the little port of San
Antonio. From this point to Tarrafal Point, (northwest
point of St. Jago,) the coast runs N. and S. for 18 miles, and
includes two small coves, with sandy beaches, separated by a
rocky jutting point. The one to the south is called Bibeira
caRibeiradaBar'da Barca, and the other, 6 miles farther north, Bibeira da
ST. JAGO — ANCHORAGES, ETC.— FOGO II., DESCRIPTION. 39
Prata. During fine weather anchorage may he taken off
these beaches in from 0 to 13 fathoms, sandy bottom. Water,
wood, and a small quantity of provisions may be obtained.
Six miles north of Ribeira da Prata, and near the northwest
point of the island, there is a bay called Tarrafal Bay ; accord-
ing to the native seamen it is safe during the rainy season, but
entirely exposed to thenorthwest winds. Anchorage maybe
taken in from 10 to 17 fathoms, sand or gravel bottom.
There is a custom-house station here, but no habitations.
Fire- wood, water, and a few supplies may be had. It is fre¬
quented by vessels coming for orclial.
Tarrafal Point, the northwest point of St. Jago, is high and
abrupt ; from thence the coast trends to the SE. A little
to the eastward is a large bay called Malguetas, which is
entirely open, and dangerous on account of the calms, cur¬
rents, and heavy swell in its vicinity. Sailing-vessels should
keep 9 or 10 miles off this coast. There is also another
small port in about the middle of the east coast, called Port
St. Jago; it may be recognized by the palm-trees growing
near the bottom, and by the church on its southern part. It
is dangerous, and rarely attempted.
Ribeira da Pra-
ta.
Tarrafal Bay.
Wood.
Water
Tarrafal Point.
Malguetas Bay.
Port St. Jago.
FOGO ISLAND.
Fogo Island is nearly circular; it is 43 miles in extent,
and lies 50 miles SW. of St. Jago ; it is the loftiest of the
Cape Verde Islands, and may be seen from a long distance,
the principal peak in the northeast corner being 9,700 feet
above the sea. There have been two eruptions from this
volcano in the present century; the last was in 1847. It
seems now to be extinct, and quantities of sulphur are
obtained from the inside of the crater. The coast is gener¬
ally high and abrupt. The ground is clear within a mile
of the shore on the northwest, west, and south parts; but on
the northeast, east, and southeast, a rocky plateau extends
a short distance off shore. There is a great scarcity of good
water on the island. The inhabitants are Spanish, and num¬
ber about 13,000. The climate is moderate in the northern
part, but to the southward the heat is suffocating and
droughts are frequent.
A rock is said to exist off the north end of Fogo Island; caution,
its supposed position is 4 miles off shore, with the peak
bearing S b E.
Ships should not approach the high parts of the island, winds-
for, although a strong breeze may be blowing in the offing,
light winds and calms prevail near the shore.
40 TOGO LI. — CURRENTS, ANCHORAGE, ETC. — BRAVA.
Currents. Off the north and northeast points of Fogo the currents
are strong, and influenced by the winds outside.
Anchorage. The principal anchorage of Fogo is off the town of Nossa
Senhora da Luz, in the southwest part of the island. The
roadstead is entirely open to the west, but sheltered from east¬
erly winds by the high land which surrounds it. Anchorage
is taken J mile from the shore in 25 fathoms, rocky bot¬
tom, with the north point of the bay bearing N 2° W. ; the
south point S 50° E., and the battery N 52° E. Anchor¬
age may also be taken J mile from shore in from 10 to 17
fathoms; bottom, sand or rocks. At f mile off shore there
is no bottom at 130 fathoms. The landing is very bad. On
account of the calms under the high land, the coast should
not be approached until off the town. Short sail should be
carried, as the squalls are violent.
Porto da villa. There is another anchorage, a little to the northward of
and separated from Luz by a sandy point. It is entirely
open to the west, and the landing is very bad. Anchorage
may be taken in from 12 to 17 fathoms, same bottom as at
Luz. Vessels are said to anchor in Porto da Villa in the wet
season, and at Luz at other times on account of a curious
shifting sands, phenomenon which modifies the nature of the bottom. In
both ports the bottom is rocky, covered with a thin bed of
sand. During the period when the winds blow from the
southward, the sands are carried from Luz to Porto da Villa,
and in November, when the northeast trades set in, are car-
Soundings. ried back again to Luz. No soundings are obtained around
the island with a line of 130 fathoms, j of a mile from shore.
BRAVA ISLAND.
Brava, formerly called St. John Island, lies miles west
of Fogo. It is very high, and would be seen at a great dis¬
tance were it not constantly covered by a dense atmosphere.
There are a number of peaks scattered over its surface,
which is 10 miles in extent. Off the northwest coast there
is a small islet lying close to the land. The climate is healthy.
The inhabitants number about 6,000. There is considerable
cultivation in the valleys. Fruits and vegetables abound.
Large quantities of salt and saltpeter are obtained. There
are six sources of water on the island.
Rombos islets. The Rombos, or Romes Islets, are two rocky islets about
3 miles in extent, lying in a northeast and southwest direc¬
tion, 2 miles apart, but almost connected by rocks forming a
crescent. From the eastern islet the northwest point of
Fogo bears E b S J S., distant 6 miles ; from the western and
higher islets the nearest port of Brava bears S J W., distant
BRAY A— ANCHORAGES, ETC.— C. VERDE II.— DANGERS. 41
five miles. They are surrounded by deep water, but the
ground between them is foul ; clear channels exist between
them and Brava and Fogo.
There are several anchorages round Brava, principally
for coasters ; they are difficult of access, and only afford sup¬
plies in limited quantities.
The best is called Furna, or the Oven, and is on the east
coast, a little to the southward of the northeast point of the
island of Punta do Jabundo ; it is small, shaped like an oven,
is sheltered from winds except those from SE. and SW.,
and the water is very deep close to. Vessels anchor in 21 J
fathoms, and moor with a line to the rocks astern. In going
to this anchorage it is better to make the northeast point, and
then steer south until the bay is open ; it may be recognized
by its form, as well as by the custom-house and other houses
at the bottom. Go in with the sea-breeze and out with the
land-breeze. There are two or three small boats here which
show the way in. During the season of southerly winds,
vessels leave this anchorage for another called Feignau de
Augua, which is three miles NW. of Furna. It can con¬
tain five or six coasters anchored in 7£ or 8 fathoms and
moored to the rocks. It is open from NW. to NE. Water
is plentiful. At 1J miles west of the south point of the
island there is a small cove called Anciao, suitable only for
small craft which go there for saltpeter. A little to the
northward of Anciao is another called Ferreiros. Coasters
moor to the rocks. Water in small quantities to be had.
All the island is well cultivated, and a large quantity of
maize is raised for exportation. Fruits and vegetables may
be had to a limited extent.
Soundings.
Anchorages.
Furna.
Feign an de Au¬
gua.
Ancido.
Ferreiros.
Products.
DANGERS.
The following dangers have been reported near the Cape
Verde Islands, but do not appear on the latest charts.
This shoal was reported by Capt. Thomas Fanning, of the gh^J1nnah sCoral
brig Hannah, on the passage from Bio Janeiro to Trieste,
June 25, 1824. Sounded in fifteen fathoms, granulated coral,
on the southwest part, but supposed it much shoaler on the
northeast parts, as the weed was plainly to be seen, from the
mast-head, on the surface of the water. Its latitude was
found to be 10° 07' N. ; longitude about 27° 32' W. In 1857
the Constantine sounded in 87 fathoms, rock and gravelly
bottom, in lat. 10° 09' 20" K, long. 26° 47' 10" W. ;
and Captain Pullen, in Her Majesty’s ship Cyclops, could
find no bottom, on the spot assigned to the Hannah Bank,
with 2,000 fathoms of line.
Patty's Slioal.
Porgas Bank.
42 CAPE VEKDE ISLANDS — DANGERS.
In 18G8 the Astrea sounded all round its position, but
without result.
The position given for this shoal is 11° N., 24° 30' W.
Searched for by Lieutenant Wilkes, United States Navy, but
not found. Erased from charts.
In the early charts of the Atlantic this bank has always
been shown as extending GO leagues N. and S., with a breadth
of G leagues. It was unsuccessfully sought for by the Severn
in 1819.
In 1819 Captain Freminville sounded in 164 fathoms, in
lat. 15o 35/ k, long. 2U 40' W. In 1850 Mr. Allen, in the
Birkenhead, obtained a cast in 86 fathoms in lat. 17° N.,
long. 23° 03' 15" W. The bottom appeared to consist ot
pieces of shells and sand, or small particles of coral. The
sea is said to be much discolored on the bank, which may
serve to recognize it.
ALPHABETICAL INDEX.
Anciao, anchorage of
Antonio, St., Island .
Antonio, St., Port. ..
Antonio, St., Peak ...
Balallia, Mount. ...
Bicudas, Punta das
Bird Island .
Bissagos Islands . . .
Blisset Reefs . .
Bluff Reef .
Boavista Island. . . .
- currents. ...
- soundings . . .
- caution . . . . .
Bonetta Rock . .
Botelka, Point .
Branca Island _ _
Brava Island .
Braitli waite Islet . .
Broyal, Point .
- Mount .
Bull Rock .
C.
Callieta, Port of .
Cape Verde Islands . ...
- general remarks.
- climate .
- productions .
- exports .
- imports .
- winds .
- fogs .
- currents .
- channels .
- tides .
- soundings .
- coasts .
- dangers oft’ .
Carrical Bay .
- water .
- tides .
Carvoeiros, anchorage of
Cavallo Blanco Reef
Pages.
41
15
38
33,35
33
36
13,26
12
34
28
27
27
32
32, 33
27
18
21
40
28
28
27
17
35
0-43
9-15
10, 12
10
10
10
11
12
12
13
15
15
15
41, 42
23
23
23
17
10
Pages.
Cidade, anchorage of . 38
Columua, Point . 18
Comicos, Tort . 38
Coral Hill . 28
- Point . 28
- Reef . 30
Curralinho Anchorage . 29
U.
Dos Gatos Bay . 18
Do Sol, Pointa . 16
- anchorage . 16
- water . 16
- directions . 16
Dutch Islet . 28,29
E.
English Road . 28,30,34
- water . 34
- soundings . 34
- reefs . 34
Estancia, Point . 28
F.
Feignan de Augua, anchorage of. .. 41
Ferreiros anchorage . 41
Fogo Island . 39
- danger north of . 39
Foul Channel . 13
Formosa, Mount . 23
Forcado Bay . 24
Freshwater Bay . 23
Furna, anchorage . 41
- directions . 41
G.
Galhao or North Reef .
Gonedo, Mount .
33
24
II.
Hannah’s Bank . 41
Hartwell Reefs . 29
Horn Point . 25
I.
Inner Reef
30
44
ALPHABETICAL INDEX.
J. Pages.
Jabundo, Punta do . 41
Janella River . 1~
Juan Fernandez, Mount . 27
K.
Krabbe Point . 23
L.
Lapa Bay . 24
Leon Island . 21
Leton Rock . 9, 32,33
Leeward Group . 9, 10
Lion’s Head Point . . 26
Luz, N. S. da, anchorage of . 40
- directions . 40
M.
Malguetas Bay . 39
Man Mountain . 27
Manuel, Point . 25
Martinez, Peak . 25
Mayo Island . -. . 33
- directions . 35
- soundings . 34,35
Monte Gordo, (Branca) . 21
Mordeira Bay . 26
- water . 26
- tides . 26
N.
North Cay . 28
New Town . 30
- reef of . 30
Northwest Bay . 24
O.
Porto Sal Rey . .
Porto Praya .
- directions . .
- tides . .
- anchorage . .
- resources .
- seasons . .
Praya, Town of .
Praya Branca .
Porto Grande, Bay of .
- water .
- directions .
- resources . .
- anchorage .
Porto da Villa, anchorage of.
- shifting sands .
Portuguese Road — . .
Preguiza, Port .
- directions . .
Punta das Bicudas .
Q-
Quail Island .
R.
Rahil .
Raza Island .
Resher Peak .
Ribeira da Barca, port of
Ribeira da Plata, port of
Ribeira Brava .
Ribeira Grande .
- ravine of .
Rolla Road .
Rocky Point .
Rombos Islets .
Pages.
39
36
37
38
37
38T
38
10,37
22
18
20
18-20
20
18
40
40
29
24
21
36
37
30
22
28
38
39
23
38
38
23
34,35
40
Ochello, Mount . 27
Otho do Mar, Mount . 24
Oroutes Bank . 19
Orratfio, Point . 28
P.
Palmas, Cape . 12
Palmira Bay..-- . 27
- Point . 27
Patty’s Shoal . 42
Pan Secco, Bay of . 35
Pinos, Mount . 33
Platform Hill . 27
Porgas Bank . 42
Porto Salina . 26
Porto do Norte . 28
S.
Sal Island . 25
SalmassaBay . 18
Salt Pan Point . 34
Sal Rey, port of . . . 1 . 30
San Joao Baptista do Norte . 29
Santa Cruz . 17
Santa Maria Bay . 25
San Pedro Bay . . 20
Serra Negra, Point . 25
Small Island . 30
St. Antonio Island . 15
- Peak . 33, 35
St. Francis Bay . 36
St. George’s Bay . 23
St. Jago Island . ... 35
ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 45
Pages
St. Jago, town of . 39
St. Lucia Island . 20
St. Nicholas Island . 22
St. Vincent Island . 17
Still Bay . 20
Sugar-Loaf Mountain . 16, 22
T.
Tarrafal Bay, (St. Antonio) . 16
- water . 16
Tarrafal Bay, (St. Nicholas) . 24
- water . 24
Tarrafal Bay, (St. Jago) . 39
Temerosa, Point . 36
Ten-foot Reef . 30 i
Pages.
Turtle Point . 26
U.
Urrateo, Point . 28
V.
Verandinha Reef . 30
- Point . 28
Vermilharia, Point . 24
Visconde Point . 37
W.
Windward Islands . 9, 10
Wreck Point . 25
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